Use Computerized Embroidery Machines for Personalized and Perfect Quilting
Quilting from the embroidery hoop, a versatile approach with many applications, requires some special considerations from design, carefully thread, and stabilizer choices to deciding how to finish off the thread stops. A little extra effort and thought in these areas can increase the success and beauty of machine embroidered quilting.
First of almost all, consider using outlines of loaded designs and redwork designs together with designs that are digitized because quilting patterns. Use editing software features or step through the design on the machine to help stitch only the outline. Make sure to check the stitch process on the outlines, as some are discontinuous as well as jump around, which would not right for a quilt motif. Some types have heavier outlines, such as if your design uses a triple stitch rather than a single running stitch, making a corner of the design look more substantial. While the heaviness of the stitching can not be changed easily, even these heavy lines will appear lighter when light weight thread is used in both the bobbin and the needle.
Secondly, the bobbin thread should complement the backing fabric if the quilting might be hidden. Since almost all bobbin carefully thread is either black or whitened, lightweight embroidery thread is an excellent bobbin thread choice for machine embroidered quilting. Some designs work with monofilament thread from the bobbin, needle, or both. It's best to slow down the machine speed if using monofilament thread. If the stitching might be visible, embroidery thread to contrast with the backing fabric can be used in the bobbin. This is an excellent place to use cotton embroidery threads in both needle and bobbin, as they match the fabric type and are also stronger than rayon embroidery post.
No special settings need to become used if the needle carefully thread matches the bobbin thread, but if the 2 threads will be of different colors, some adjustment may be essential. Embroidery machines are set around pull the needle thread to the back of the embroidery to have an unbalanced stitch. If the needle thread coloring would look unsightly when it appeared within the back of the quilt, the needle tension might be increased until a more well balanced stitch is achieved, with the help of threads interlocking within the thickness of the batting covering.
The third consideration is choosing a suitable stabilizer. One of the greatest great things about quilting in the hoop can be that often no stabilizer is necessary, such as when a about three layer quilt sandwich is hooped along with a low density design is embroidered. If a stabilizer is desired, there are several possible approaches. The easiest would be to use a water soluble stabilizer that might be washed away after the quilt is completed. The quilting can also be achieved on a sandwich consisting of your top fabric, batting, and some sort of cut away stabilizer, by the backing fabric attached either within the underside of the hoop sooner or later during the quilting process or as a later step altogether. Using of a tear away stabilizer is also appropriate, but tearing the stabilizer faraway from the running stitches can be time intensive, making this a more complicated method. Other stabilizer combinations are being developed as this quilting approach increases in popularity.
Finally, the biggest consideration is where to start with the thread ends and knots. When the quilting is to go completely to the edge of the piece to become quilted, hoop the top, batting and backing together and stitch out the design, then trim the larger hooped item to size and finish the particular quilt. Finishing techniques range coming from traditional bindings, to serged perimeters, to various quilt-as-you-go methods. But what about those times when you want to use an embroidery design to help quilt a border? Or for those projects the location where the quilt layers are already build before you embroider through all the layers in the center of the quilt? What do you need to do with the thread ends within the back? There are several options, depending on the result desired and the effort applied to achieve that result.
The easiest choice is just to allow the machine to help cut the threads. When your quilt is removed from hoop, apply a little a fray stop solution to the knots and to each end of each and every jump stitch. When the alternative is dry, trim the post to about 1/8 inch. It will have visible knots and thread stops, but embroidery thread is so fine, knots should not be highly noticeable. This is usually recommended and an identifying characteristic of quilting from the hoop.
In some designs the jump stitches is going to be small enough as to be barely noticeable and can be left intact. If selected designs have longer jump stitches in them, there are ways to help make these stitches invisible or virtually so. One way is to stitch these designs through the top and batting layers, adding the backing by another method afterwards.
However, in most cases the quilting is going to be through all three sandwich levels, so something must be carried out with the jump stitches. If visible jump stitches are certainly not acceptable, it is possible to help bury the threads, making a corner look as beautiful as the leading. This takes more effort, but can go more speedily than one would expect. If the ends of thread are to be buried, be sure all automatic carefully thread snips and cutters are deterred. Leave long thread tails concerning any separate motifs. When all quilting is completed, trim one end of each jump stitch within the front of the quilt and turn the quilt over to the back. For each jump stitch, trim the same end that was trimmed within the front. This area can be secured further which has a minute drop of fray quit solution. Pull on the bobbin thread in the other end of the soar stitch to pull the needle thread to the back. If the needle thread won't pull to the back, thread this by the eye of a sharp sewing needle and operate the needle to bring it to the back. You may tie the filling device thread and bobbin thread in the small square knot for more security, but this is not absolutely necessary. Bury both thread leads to the batting of the duvet, either separately or together. If you pull the thread so your fabric buckles a little before you snip off the end, it is going to slide back into the duvet sandwich and disappear. Another technique is always to snip the thread about ¼ inch beyond the fabric to ensure a little tail is exhibiting, and then lift the backing enough with the tail to slip between the particular quilt layers. For long soar stitches, the threads can be snipped at the center, and threaded between the layers at each end on the jump.
This technique is also applied to the threads that start and end a motif. Make it sure to leave long threads between motifs and snip them at the center so there is thread to help bury afterwards. Use the bobbin threads to help pull the needle threads to the back, and bury the threads utilizing a hand sewing needle. This technique takes a large amount of effort, but it pays huge dividends. The back of the quilt looks as beautiful because the front, and the stitching is secure and can not come undone.
One way to cut your finishing workload in half is to start each design the way you would a free-motion quilting pattern by pulling up your bobbin thread before you start and holding both the needle and bobbin threads because the stitching starts. Then both threads can either be buried which has a needle later or snipped off together on top, depending on how securely they are held by all of those other embroidery stitches.